Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Travel Blogging XII


Reykjavik, Iceland: We arrived in Reykjavik harbor around 1 p.m. today, as we were having lunch. The water has been smooth all morning after a rough night. Smooth water makes for easier showers.

In rough weather you begin to appreciate why they make ship showers so small, it’s a safety feature. In a tiny shower you can always lean on a wall or hold the grab handle.

This afternoon we took a 4x4 tour and it was something of a disaster. The other DrC and I were in what they call a “super jeep” that was really a full-sized Ford van tricked out with rally lights, huge tires and four wheel drive.

A short distance into the first off-road stint of our tour our van broke a front axle and ended up with one front tire far from parallel to the other front tire. So we were all redistributed to the other three vans and we pressed on up the mountain for an enormous panoramic view, including of the volcano that caused so much trouble recently for Europe.

Coming back down the mountain there was a new van waiting for us where they were trying to fix the broken one. We reloaded and pressed on for a couple of hours.

Late in the afternoon our replacement van blew out its airbag front suspension and the other three vans stopped to try to fix it. Twenty minutes later they’d succeeded sufficiently that we could finish the tour. I wonder if Icelandic 4x4 tour operators routinely have this much mechanical trouble?

The other DrC and I were reminded of a 4x4 tour we took in the Falkland Islands in 2003 where we got stuck in the mud every few minutes. Yes, 4x4s do get bogged down if the mud is really slippery, as that was.

On the other hand, if the machines were unreliable, the weather was spectacular. Visibility was nearly unlimited and the sunshine was great.

Apparently the ugly weather sets in again tomorrow, the captain expects 20 foot swells and 35 knot winds. We’ve been notified that the planned stop in Greenland has been scrubbed and replaced with stops in St. John’s, Newfoundland, and St. John, New Brunswick, both ports in maritime Canada.

The new itinerary isn’t too bad, if the weather even permits those revised stops. I can’s say I’m surprised that we’ve had some bad weather, given what time of year it is in the notorious North Atlantic. However, Iceland has yet to begin autumn (factoid: Reykjavik is the farthest north national capital).